This is a phenomenal Hanae Mori coat. An example using a brocade in the same feel is held in the Met Museum's permanent collection and I believe this is from that same collection. Mori was the first woman of Japanese descent to have presented on both the Paris and New York runways and the first Asian woman to be admitted as an official Haute Couture house to La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Her work is exceptional. I have only ever seen a couple of her brocade pieces for sale outside of seeing one in a museum. When I find pieces like this one that is so stunningly beautiful I am very happy.

The fabric on this coat is amazing. A gold thread woven through an ivory and black black background creates that stunning design that you see. The pattern on the coat is divided into hexagon medallions that are done with either the ivory or black backing. Then each design within that is a striking flower or cluster of flowers. The flowers are done in pale pinks, white, turquoise and a bright coral red. The final effect of all that colour with the gold thread mixed in is absolutely beautiful to see. The cut is classic and the fabric has a bit of weight to it. It is not so heavy that it is unwieldy but it has enough of a weight that once on the body the shape that you see is held perfectly. Each sleeve is cut to just below the elbow and they are cut straight and wide. You can flip the end of the sleeves over and when you do that you see that band of black silk satin. We followed it with the sleeves flipped, but you could also wear them straight and then the pattern just continues to the end of the sleeve. I love that.the black band perfectly pick up the black silk satin covered buttons down the front to perfectly tie all the elements together. The collar is simple and frames the neck. The shoulders are soft, and have a slight sloping cut. From there the coat flares out to a slight A-line and we took a photo of it laying flat so you can see the shape. It is just spectacular and the simplicity of the cut only further highlights the drama of that rich bold fabric. It is very couture in feel and one of the best vintage coats I have ever seen. Excellent condition

Fully lined in a pale yellow silk and closes at the front with black silk covered buttons. I see some foxing and marks to the inner lining. Tag a vintage Hanae Mori 8. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. The colours and metallic feel of it are even better in person.

Sleeves: approx 17" with the cuffs flipped up and 19 if they are not flipped. 14" around the upper arm.
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 38" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4675

Reference Photo: Fall 1974/75 Hanae Mori Brocade Coat in The MET Collection.

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